Riving Dry Stock for Chairs, Stools and Implements – Lost Art Press

Some short sticks that I rived from furnace dry white oak for an Irish vernacular seat.

Throughout the previous seven years or so I’ve been working with furnace dried wood that I have rived to help fix the grain in my parts. However, I haven’t actually expounded on it on the grounds that – I’ll be straightforward – I was uncomfortable with introducing the cycle.

It functions admirably. It’s not as wonderful as riving green stock – that is the gold decoration method. In any case, it can incredibly improve the strength and working attributes of your parts and permit you to utilize regular lumberyard wood.

As this is one of the center methods in “Guerrilla Chairmaking,” I thought I’d start the conversation about it here on the blog and take my hitting.

Here’s the manner by which I do it.

Legs and cot parts that were “dry rived” from white oak. This is the thing that straight stock will give you.

I utilize 8/4 quartersawn white and red oak when I go “dry riving.” I’ve done it with pecan and maple, yet oak parts the best among the species I can arrive. At the lumberyard I look on the edges of the sheets for the straightest grain conceivable. Most quartersawn sheets will have pretty straight grain on the edges and faces. The sheets may have some breathtaking grain close to one end – likely the start of the tree’s root mass. That is OK – the thrilling stuff proves to be useful.

At that point I crosscut the sheets to the lengths I need. That is 23″ for legs and long sticks and 13″ for short sticks. I mark out my parts on the end grain and plan the parts to follow the annular rings. At that point I put the stock on my workbench (more than one of the seat’s legs) and rive it out with a froe and a hammer – much the same as green stock. With dry stock, I haven’t found as much need to rive the stock into equal parts and afterward rive it significantly once more. I simply pop the parts off the board.

As far as I might be concerned, the riven surface looks equivalent to when I work with green wood.

In the event that I bought straight-grained sheets, I’ll get a level surface along the split. I dress that with a jack plane and afterward work from that point to valid up the stick off that riven surface. I utilize a jack plane for the greater part of this work, working either in a support (as appeared) or against a stop a la Chris Williams and John Brown.

At the point when the grain bends, I don’t discard that stock. As should be obvious in the photograph the top segment is straight, yet the base is fundamentally thrilling. I have a few options: crosscut the straight area and utilize that as a short stick. Or on the other hand utilize the bended shape as an arm or peak.

This piece with bended grain (circumventing a bunch) can be utilized for seat arms or a peak. Or on the other hand I can manage off the top area and make a short stick.

The parts I make appear to be solid as damnation. For the book I will test them against green rived stock (that has been air-dried). Chris Williams has a torment test for reckless wood that likewise removes spaces with short grain.

In the book, I’ll go into much more detail than is conceivable with a blog section, however this passage has enough for anybody to check it out.

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